Milan Fashion Week: 3 days

Does sex still sell in Italy, Mario Monti? This question is the subtext of the Milan Spring / Summer collections. After all, sex - party - has long been a feature of many Italian houses, even in the years before Silvio Berlusconi made a part of everyday conversation. The brands that did not disclose the problem are defined by their opposition the opportunity for consumers who wanted to Just Say No Well, that's not the word of the hour, but the alternative was given the upper hand? Are we in a post-gender, not only politically, but also sartorially? Over the weekend, the answer was looking a bit like Yes. Even Dolce & Gabbana, the house, the mere an empire on the body built Siciliana, corsets and lingerie for businesses "of the sea, the sun and love," aka a good nostalgic fun filled silk dresses it below the knee in the primary impressions colorful dolls, raw linen blouses like sacks of flour or richly embroidered coral painted awning stripes and pom-poms and even put bustiers canvas, something happens. When Emilio Pucci, a master of the jet-set neck dive, which advertises "force inside and outside the serenity," it is no coincidence. Surely, if it Pucci seems more theoretical than practical, because the body in layers of white chiffon embroidered on white Chinoiserie veiled, were veiled in another layer of transparency and trouser suit, was so pure seams provided the only cover. But the intention was there. (More protected if dangerous courting cliché, inspired combinations of satin and sportswear kimono with gold army of dragons and tigers were embroidered.) Shows the most relevant flesh and flash avoided adopting a more strategic approach at all. Starting with the return of Jil Sander in the house that bears his name, after eight years (she left because of creative differences with the then owner, Prada Group). "Re-zeroing", read his notes show, but it's created a continuum with both his own past at home and the work of his predecessor, Raf Simons and his fascination with heirloom sewing. Carefully white shirts, navy coats, pants - - using his language purist signature them a simple curved structure resembles random added, but has been incorporated into a piece of clothing, a jacket bell could on their backs, as if one formed by a fresh air to black T-shirt matching pants end with a surprise attack in the halfpipe at the rear and a large pair of navy blue shirt dresses returned to drape Sun Forced when the last pieces of white cotton felt polka dot plastic discs with holographic in all, the type of clothing to attract the scarce women, but men are confusing teasing forms contours the body, so that what you see there, no idea that might get you. Since they often Marni, Consuelo Castiglione, where cotton jacquard designer uses shapes and oversized tunics and dresses to be away from your body squared, kiss from time to time by the wrinkles, but most often obscured. Flowers wallpaper with light sequins and cover checks were plastered picnic the only tracks in a sea of ​​color block proved to be enveloped the plot. But a sense aerodynamic clothing Fendi, where Karl Lagerfeld shared relaxed in his finest collection seasons. Although the ready-to-wear house may seem as playful as furs dazzling, this time focusing on sportsmanship (designers seem powerless against the Olympic effect) as a belt and drawstring shapes simple T-shirt and short, and architecture, especially the Bauhaus color graphics of the Memphis movement lean, his tendency to complicate things. Dresses come with big contrasting stripes on the seams and edges, leather has so easily been treated like a veil, and the explosion of the supernova fingerprints were alone at the point on a mini-organza dress simple form on the left and a fur coat shaved extraordinary. The result is sharp and clear and energetic. He could not be bothered to flirt, to stop, she was too busy to go forward. This makes a difference with convincing trio Versace silk and lace boho chic rebels. Dresses, jackets and pants black in the first, often wrinkled, came with cut pieces of the second were the jeans slumming sometimes with studded belts and straps, segueing into tie-dye versions are the same, and cut the goddess dresses metallic fringe drops. Without structure, the clothes were not feeling her usual physical strength and dizziness. . . Flange. Even a technocrat not want.